The best timber job for an amateur, starting or affirmed handyman! Today I brows…
The best timber job for an amateur, starting or affirmed handyman! Today I brows…: Choosing a Finish
I use nitrocellulose lacquer for all my projects because I own spray equipment and lacquer was made to be sprayed. Even without spray equipment, however, there are several compelling reasons to use lacquer.
First, lacquer dries very fast, leaving almost no time for dust to settle onto the finish. This reduces the need for a perfectly clean finishing environment, though this is still desirable. For the spray finisher this has the added benefit of eliminating the need to mask everything in sight since any over-spray that reaches nearby objects is dry and can be simply dusted off. Because lacquer dries so fast, you can apply many coats in a very short time. I usually wait no more than 20-30 minutes between coats.
Second, lacquer cures by the evaporation of its solvent rather than by chemical reaction (like varnish or polyurethane) or not at all (like oil finishes). This means that a less than ideal temperature will not affect the ultimate hardness of the finish, though it may affect drying time. The fact that lacquer is solvent-based also means that each coat dissolves and bonds to the one beneath it, eliminating the need to sand between coats to get them to adhere.
Third, lacquer dries hard, making it very easy to polish to exactly the luster desired. Other finishes like varnish and polyurethane that cure by chemical reaction never completely harden; you may have to wait weeks or even months to do your final rubbing and even then you may not get the result you want. And because lacquer dries so fast you can rub a lacquer topcoat the same day it is applied, though ideally you should wait at least a full day. These properties also make lacquer very forgiving. If you botch a coat, simply wait for it to dry polish out the mistake.
Fourth, lacquer is very durable. Polyurethane exceeds lacquer in its ability to withstand abuse and water damage, and is therefore better suited to high-use surfaces, but damaged lacquer is much easier to repair.
Finally, lacquer in unparalleled in its depth and clarity. Nothing else even comes close.
Lacquer does have several disadvantages. Lacquer must be rubbed out to achieve the desired level of finish. This is one of the reasons for the appeal of mass market finishes such as varnish and poly that give reasonably good results right out of the can. However, once it is rubbed out, lacquer surpasses all other finishes in gloss, depth, and clarity. To get a truly high quality finish you must be willing to perform this extra step.
Because it dries so fast, lacquer does not brush well, another reason for the mass market preference for varnish and poly. There are, however, several ways around this. You can spray it, which is the ideal solution. A good HVLP (high volume, low pressure) spray outfit, which is what I own, can be had for just a few hundred dollars, and is well worth the investment if you do a lot of finishing. There are other alternatives, however, that make brushing feasible. First, you can add a little lacquer retarder to the mix to slow drying and allow the finish time to flow out. Second, you can purchase lacquers specifically designed for brushing (called “brushing lacquers”). Third, you can apply many, many coats, accepting the brush marks, and simply cut down through them when you rub out the finish.
Lacquer’s most significant disadvantage is that its fumes are very toxic. For this reason you should always wear a NIOSH-approved vapor respirator when you use lacquer. NIOSH-approved vapor respirators have special carbon filter elements that absorb organic fumes; read the package carefully..
The toxicity of lacquer, its solvent, and its fumes, have caused many finishers have stopped using them. Lacquer poses little threat to the environment, it is so volatile, it evaporates almost immediately if spilled, and because lacquer thinner is a naturally-derived organic compound, once airborne it is rapidly broken down by sunlight into benign compounds. The only significant danger lacquer poses is if you breathe its fumes directly because you failed to wear your respirator.
Many books have been written about finishes and their advantages and disadvantages and I’ve read most of them. My conclusion is that the advantages of using lacquer far outweigh its disadvantages. It is easier to use and repair, more forgiving, and more beautiful than any other finish. As I’ve said before, nothing else even comes close.
Applying sanding sealer
Bare or dyed wood should be sealed before applying your topcoat. Sealing fills the grain and any remaining sanding scratches and helps the finish adhere. Though you can use the topcoat itself to do this, I prefer to use a dedicated lacquer sanding sealer because it is specially formulated for this purpose and sands easily. Apply two to three coats and sand to a uniform sheen with 400 grit paper, being careful not to cut through to the dyed wood. Remember to use a sanding block on flat surfaces. Wipe away the dust.